[law-SOH-nee-a in-UR-mis]
What is Henna Powder?
Henna Powder is a plant-based permanent hair colourant made from the dried, milled leaves of the Lawsonia inermis shrub. The leaves carry a natural dye molecule called lawsone that bonds to the keratin in each strand and stains it a warm copper-red — the original permanent hair dye, in continuous use for thousands of years. Unlike chemical colour, henna does not force the cuticle open or strip pigment out of the hair; it deposits colour onto the strand and conditions it at the same time, which is why hennaed hair is known for its glassy shine as much as for its colour. Used alone it gives coppers and auburns; layered with indigo it builds every natural-looking shade from chestnut brown to jet black.
A Brief History of Henna
Henna is arguably the oldest cosmetic still in everyday use. Traces of it have been identified on the hair and nails of Egyptian mummies, and it has coloured hair, hands and textiles across North Africa, the Middle East and South Asia for millennia — as mehndi, the same leaf marks weddings and festivals to this day. In Ayurvedic tradition henna is classed as a cooling herb, one reason a henna treatment feels pleasantly cool on the scalp, and it was applied as much for scalp health as for colour. The plant's two lives — ornament and remedy — have never really separated.
The Science: How Lawsone Works
The pigment in henna is lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone), held in the leaf at around 1–2% by weight. Mixing the powder with warm water frees it — the resting stage traditionally called dye release. The lawsone molecule then migrates into the outer layers of the hair shaft and binds to keratin, where it stays: henna grows out, it does not wash out.
Lawsone is a translucent orange-red stain, so it layers over your natural base rather than replacing it. On grey and blonde hair it reads bright copper; on brown hair, a warm auburn glow; on near-black hair, mostly shine with a red flash in sunlight. The colour continues to deepen and settle for 24–48 hours after rinsing as the pigment oxidises in air.
Key Benefits for Hair
- Permanent colour without PPD or ammonia: henna colours the hair with no para-phenylenediamine, no ammonia and no peroxide — the three ingredients responsible for most chemical-dye damage and allergy.
- Structural shine and body: the deposited lawsone layer smooths the cuticle and slightly thickens each strand, so fine hair gains body and all hair gains a characteristic mirror shine.
- Grey blending: greys take the dye first and brightest, emerging as copper strands that read like deliberate highlights rather than regrowth.
- Scalp comfort: traditionally used as a cooling scalp treatment, henna is mildly astringent and antimicrobial, leaving the scalp feeling fresh after a treatment.
Henna and Grey Hair
On white and grey hair, henna alone gives copper-red — never brown or black, because there is no dark base underneath for the translucent stain to build on. One application blends greys into warm highlights; repeated applications deepen them toward auburn. For solid browns or black over grey, henna is step one of two: the copper base it lays down is what lets indigo read as a true dark shade instead of blue-green. That pairing is the two-step method.
Natural Henna vs “Black Henna”
Pure henna is never black, and it is never fast. Products sold as “black henna” — including some temporary tattoo pastes — typically owe their colour and speed to para-phenylenediamine (PPD), a potent sensitiser that has caused severe skin reactions and lasting allergy. Compound hennas may also carry metallic salts that react unpredictably with chemical dyes. Spierb Henna Powder is 100% Lawsonia inermis leaf: no PPD, no metallic salts, no added dyes — the colour it gives is the colour lawsone makes.
Safety & Contraindications
Patch test 24–48 hours before first use, and strand test before colouring your whole head — henna is permanent, and the result depends on your starting shade. If you have ever reacted to a “black henna” temporary tattoo, seek professional advice before using any hair colourant.
Henna is for external use on hair only — keep it away from eyebrows, eyelashes and broken or irritated skin. The dry powder is a fine dust; mix it in a ventilated space. Henna stains skin and fabric on contact, so protect your hairline, wear gloves and use dark towels. If you plan to bleach or chemically colour over hennaed hair later, always strand test first and tell your colourist.
